The Kramer Sattel is my goal for today’s mountain hike. It is one of insider tips of all the hikes in the Gosaukamm range. The trail is not marked and therefore only undertaken by insiders and those with local knowledge. I’ve been wanting to this tour for a while now and never got around to it – but today’s the day.

Ascent along the Wastl-Lackner-Steig
I set off bright and early at 08.00 am. I start by driving up to the Hofalm and walking from the Unterhofalm along the Wastl-Lackner-Steig to the Hofpürglhütte. The trail leads steeply uphill along twisty bends, firstly over open alpine pasture, then through mountain pines. Furthermore, the morning sun shines down on my path, so that I begin to sweat profusely. An hour later, this first section is behind me and I reach a path junction next to the Hofpürglhütte with lots of signposts.

Chamois show me the way
I follow the Linzer Weg towards the Rinderfeld and hike up this trail for approx. 15 minutes. A small blue spot marker indicates I should turn off. So, I follow the track, which is barely visible, traverse several eroded, deep trenches, gradually nearing my destination. Suddenly, chamois appear ahead of me in the distance, I stop briefly and observe them. There seems to be a whole herd of them, I count nearly 20 animals, observing me curiously and then they elegantly leap away over the mountain slopes. This sight alone compensates for all the effort of the ascent. How often do you get such an opportunity to see these creatures in the wild?

A deep-blue mountain lake as a reward
After traversing another mountain ridge with lots of huffing and puffing, another dip looms ahead and I know I’ve almost made it. I manage the last few metres at a quicker pace. As I view the deep-blue Hintere Gosausee Lake far below me, I’m overwhelmed by an unbelievable feeling of joy. I’m glad I’ve managed to conquer the Kramer, as the locals call it, I flop down in the grass and savour the moment. After lying there for some time, I eat my packed lunch and can’t get enough of the amazing view from above. I don’t know how much time has passed, but after a while I decide to head back, as there’s quite a way to go.

Back via the Rinderfeld
Once again I follow the steep trail downhill, and half an hour later I come back onto the Linzer Weg path, which I then follow to the Rinderfeld. The path leads partly over large heaps of scree and requires concentration. As soon as you come to green, lush meadows and gentle hills, where horses, sheep and cows roam, then you’ve reached the Rinderfeld. From there a path leads downwards, firstly over alpine meadows, then along a steeper trail through the forest back to the Hofalmen, the starting point of my tour.

Refreshing cool down to finish
Exhausted, with tired legs, but with a wide smile on my face, I reach my car and decide, on the spur of the moment, to make a stop at the Kneipp water treading course (https://www.filzmoos.at/de/magazin/artikel/kneippanlage-am-fusse-der-bischofsmuetze.html) on my way home, to refresh my tired limbs as well as my  mind – no sooner said than done – and so I round off my day’s hike by with some water treading.

Photo credits: Christine Schober, TVB Filzmoos